Stage 8: Castroverde – Lugo


m. cumulative ascension


The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step
Lao Tzu

It’s raining. The rain has finally arrived.

After a few days listening, while drinking coffee in the bar of one of the villages where the Camino Primitivo passes, the weather-man announcing water, it has appeared. The sleepiest have woken up to the noise of the raincoats and the raincoats of the early risers. After catching semi-torrential rains on the West Highland Way, I have set out to get dry to the end of the stage, these days in Lugo are Fiestas, and we have to look clean and well.

Fiestas en Lugo

So, it has been time to put on the goretex, the waterproof cover for the pants, and come on, to walk again, that in Lugo are waiting us.

Walking in the rain

The start-up, as usual, has been disastrous: slow and painful. In addition, with Victor, with whom we have walked together for a while at the beginning, we have taken the wrong way, and we have done two more kilometres. Fortunately, at that time, the rain was an almost imperceptible drizzle.

After a while, and when I was already walking alone, I stopped in another of these luxury vendings that are so abundant along the Camino, although not in the Primitivo. There are times when any excuse is good to stop, especially on days of grey skies and uninterrupted rain.

Casa antes de Lugo, en el camino primitivo

I think if one day I do the French way, I will make a guide to the best vendings of the Camino de Santiago. Instead of stars I will put scallops, and the more scallops, the more amenities and more variety of food: microwaves, pasta, hot drinks … Lucky, I don’t plan to do the French.

After regaining strength, it was time to keep walking. Basically, the path consists of this: eating, walking and sleeping. I do not know if there are vendings with hammocks or stretchers or sun loungers where you can have a nap, but it would not be bad. Not that I needed it, in fact I never nap, but it wouldn’t be bad for five-star vendings. Five scallops, sorry.

The Walls of Lugo

Well, that, since I had already eaten and did not feel like sleeping, I continued walking. Shortly before arriving in Lugo it has stopped raining, and Carme, Victor and I have entered the city with the streets almost dry. It has been an indecisive, tasteless, harmless rain, with no more history, like today’s route. The important thing was to arrive early, and to be able to enjoy the first city of the primitive way after Oviedo. In addition, the municipal hostel is within the old town, so it has been perfect.

Carme, peregrina en el Primitivo
Leonie, peregrina el Primitivo
Risas en Lugo

On the first round in the old town we have taken, we were looking for a place to eat. And here a side of my I hyperdeveloped have come out: pickyrism. I didn’t like to smell as fried, and all the places we found smelled. So, we ended up eating something that has been sold as pizza on a bench, in a pretty big, central square out there, away from bad smells of fried food.

As we all sleep in Lugo, the afternoon has consisted of going around Lugo with the people I was meeting. To eat and make coffee we have gone with Leonie, Carmen and Victor. Then, with Victor and Javi we went for a drink. In one concert we met Germán, and in another Joan, who slept in another hostel. The only one I haven’t seen is Enrique.

Enrique, peregrino en el Camino Primitivo

Argentine, writer, ex-lawyer, is 42 years old, and his favourite colour is red. Thanks to him, I tried the mate. It was in Borres, five days before, although it seems that it was an eternity. He has published Desde la habitación del sur, Big Bang, Jauría y Bengalas.

To dinner and to sleep

I had dinner with Victor and Carme. Tapas, without the smell of fried. And octopus to feira, as you have already imagined. After dinner, Victor, Leonie, Magdalena and Agata have gone out to party. My feet don’t allow it.

I’ve laid on the stretcher soon, and I’ve put on some plugs that Carme has given me, anticipating a super-snorer that has arrived at dusk. She told me that they are going very well. I’ve fallen asleep singing for me Déjame. We heard it in an alley, it was played by someone, slow and soft, while it transported me fifteen years ago, when I liked it so much, when I played it in exchange for a few shots of tequila because of a group of young men, when everything was easy, fun and infinite. Sometimes I wonder how that Eduard must do.

The track


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